Day 28 : Lutz Lake

Start – Lutz Lake (1540 m)
Finish – Walupt Lake Junction (1515 m)
Daily Distance – 28 km
Ascent – 1220 m
Descent – 1250 m

The Richmond mountain range in the northern part of New Zealands’ south island is widely considered one of the most beautiful parts of the entire Te Araroa trail, and the scenery today would have no cause to be ashamed even in such majestic company.

People have been talking for weeks about the beauty of the Goat Rocks Wilderness area, and I feel fortunate to have been blessed with clear skies for the experience. The lower reaches have a distinctly alpine flavour to them, with grassy hillsides, wildflowers, and gently gurgling streams. Heidi would have felt right at home. Continuing upwards, the trail leads to the famous “knives edge” ridge.

Embarrassingly to say, I was too intent on getting to the map point where I “thought” the ridge started, to actually appreciate I was already walking along it. Not that it doesn’t afford spectacular drops/views to either side, it’s just that given the hushed, almost reverential, tones which people use to speak about it, I rather expected something a touch, well, knifier.

Typically, walking a “true” knife edge ridge, would bring at least a tremble to the knees, a tension to the jaw, and a strong regret not to have packed an emotional support teddy bear. As it was, one is fully able to pootle along, taking frequent breaks to admire Mt Rainier and Mt Adams dominating the skyline. Altogether, far more enjoyable.

Still better, there was still one snowfield to walk through at the highpoint of the route. Admittedly relatively small, reduced to perhaps only 100m or so now, but finally an excuse to triumphantly break out the Microspikes (mini crampons), which I have regretted carrying ever since beginning the journey. Not strictly speaking required, a lot of less prepared hikers were gingerly making their way across, but there were only one set of steps cut, so for ease/safety traffic was one way at a time only. Having patiently waited a turn for some 15 minutes, I eventually gave up and simply walked around the oncoming traffic using my extra grip to allow them continued use of the previously cut foot imprints. While still largely superfluous, I am glad at least to have tried my microspikes now. I doubt they will be required again on this trip, but who knows in the future.

Descending from the high places, I ventured once again through Heidi-Land, drinking from ice cold streams, polluting said streams with my hot feet, and once again admiring the blankets of flowers and mountainous backdrop.

Despite having done greater distances on other days, this was a really tiring day. The footing was frequently rocky and sun unrelenting. Every bit as beautiful as the reports had it though.

Addendum – Despite the name, no goats were harmed, or indeed, seen, in the making of this post.

Addendum 2 – Camping tonight was with 2 ladies who had just graduated college. Deciding that jobs can wait just a little longer, they have set out to walk the Washington portion of the PCT. Hikers really are a diverse bunch.