Reflections

I have great respect for any author who can really nail an ending. In the week and a half since finishing hiking, absolutely no inspiration has struck for a satisfying conclusion to this series. Perhaps it is a limitation of my writing, or maybe a feature of long hikes, that they tend to end less with a bang, but rather more with numbed relief and uncertainty about what comes next.

Life as a thru-hiker has a pleasing simplicity. Daily decisions are limited to the satisfaction of present needs. When to wake up? How far to walk? How much water to collect and when? To eat one candy bar or two? Where to sleep? All decisions that keep one in the present. This is why I choose not to listen to music or podcasts while walking. I would rather hear the rustle of wind in the trees, the soft squeak of my rucksack as things rub together, and the slow turn of my own thoughts. And at each day’s end, there is a tangible output from one’s efforts, even if this is no more than moving from one place to another a short distance away.

Other than the tight-knit and accepting trail community, feeling like a part of the natural world is the thing I miss most when not hiking. From this standpoint, the PCT delivers on both counts. My decision to walk southbound did unfortunately mean I missed out on a lot of socialising owing to fewer people walking my way. However, much of this was down to random chance. Other people found groups early on in their hike, which of course comes with its own challenges, so it is just one of those things. I was fortunate to meet many interesting people though, just typically only for a brief period.

With respect to scenery, the PCT certainly delivers, with Oregon in particular proving to be unexpectedly beautiful. Among PCT hikers, it is typically described as “flat”, “boring” or a “green tunnel” (because of all the trees blocking views). However, I think this perception is coloured by it coming at approximately 3/4 distance for NOBO hikers. By this point, so many beautiful vistas have been seen that most anything will suffer by comparison, and people are already tired having walked 1600 miles through California. One thing is not subjective though, Oregon isn’t flat! It is flatter than Washington to be sure, but all but the very southern part of the state still requires significant daily elevation gain.

In terms of favourite sections, I actually don’t have one. The day spent in the Goat Rocks Wilderness Area was probably the finest single day of hiking, but every section had its beautiful elements, plus after a while, they all start blurring into a single mass. I would happily revisit all of them.

Any discussion of the PCT wouldn’t be complete without a special shout-out for all the trail angels who selflessly support hikers with food, accommodation, and taxi services without asking anything in return. I didn’t encounter all that much ‘trail magic’, but even knowing that there is a group of people to turn to when things go wrong, or when one needs to divert around a fire closure, is a real comfort.

In the time post-trail (and post sailing), I have spent a number of days relaxing at the beach in Santa Cruz and these last few days ticking off tourist destinations in San Francisco. Highlights for me included; laughing at the antics of the sea lions, who seem both very social but also possessed of the tendency to petulant, rage filled outbursts like toddlers. Stalking sea otters, sea lions, and whales both by kayak and motorboat gave great views of the native wildlife. In San Francisco, riding the cable-drawn trams was an enjoyable, if overpriced, experience. Hanging off the side does feel rather like something that European health and safety regulations would frown upon mind. It is certainly a diverse city, with different neighbourhoods having their own distinct feel, so I don’t feel like I have done much more than scratch the surface, but honestly, I am ready to go home. Also, my bank balance is ready for me to go home. America, and San Francisco in particular, is an expensive place. It is difficult to know if this is a feature of higher wages, or some states not levying income tax, but nevertheless, it is not a cheap destination. Also, having to add 20% to all listed prices makes things even more expensive. I don’t know what the answer is (well actually, perhaps just a mandatory minimum wage and a cap on executive renumeration), but tipping culture here, I find oppressive. Tips are expected even when ordering a sandwich from a shop like Subway, or for the driver of a hop-on-hop-off tourist bus, who does nothing except drive the bus. When executives frequently earn millions, it irks me that the minions have to rely on tips to earn a reasonable wage.

Anyway, I don’t want to finish on a moan, which is why I deliberately haven’t mentioned the food 🙃. When I set out on this trip, I hoped to discover a small slice of America. To meet real people and slowly pass through unspoilt landscapes, well away from the tourist trail. In these respects, it has been everything I hoped for. To the undoubted relief of ICE, I have no desire to live here. So many of the systems and structures just seem too broken (Lego Ben on the other hand may still be roaming a prairie somewhere). I would like to visit again though. I have seen a small part of only 3 out of 50 states, so there is so much more left to see. Perhaps next time, I will tackle the southern portion of the PCT, or maybe just drink whisky in Nashville honky-tonk bars, who knows. At least Lego Ben already has the correct outfit.

Thanks for reading. Until the next time.