Start – Stillwater Holiday Park
Finish – Auckland
Daily Distance – 32km
TA Distance – 595km
Auckland! I can’t believe that I am arriving back here with the trail 20% complete. That statement
conjures up a lot of mixed emotions. Pride, no small measure of surprise to have come so far, trepidation,
because I still have to do the same distance another 4 times before journey’s end, but also a huge degree
of excitement for the same reason.
Tonight German/Swiss Chris’ joined Auckland Tim and I for a few celebratory beers. Having not seen
Tim since leaving for Cape Reinga a month ago or the Chris’ since Oakura on day 15 there was plenty of
catching up to do, both in terms of conversation and good beer. It is a constant source of amazement that
people who are walking the same trail can have such different adventures. From face-first tumbles,
unexpected BBQ invitations, to being taught the rules of rugby by an aged kiwi, I don’t think anyone can
claim to have had the “definitive” TA experience. To me that’s part of the charm.
Arriving into Auckland on the passenger ferry from the wealthy suburb of Devonport, I was left to reflect
on how different the character is here compared to the Northland region. Auckland certainly gives the
impression of being every bit the modern, wealthy metropolis. Home to an instantly recognisable skyline,
ringing with the vigor of construction and with more fancy boats and restaurants than you could shake a
small, flightless bird at, it’s an impressive place. Containing fully one third of the NZ population it’s
perhaps not surprising that the other regions can seem a little neglected. I am generalising there, but that
is the impression I received walking through the North of the country. Surprisingly, to me there didn’t
seem to be any animosity about the seeming disparity in wealth and government investment from the
people I met. If anything, they seemed quietly proud of their old cars, less opulent houses and slower pace
of life. As a tourist it can be difficult to understand the oft repeated characterisation that NZ is a bit
backwards and like England was 40 years ago. It is only when venturing off the tourist trail that it starts to
make sense. I’m not sure if everyone who repeats that characterisation intends it as a compliment, but I
think by and large it should be. It has been rather an adjustment getting used to greeting everyone I pass
on the street though. Most un-English!
