Start – Hamilton
Finish – TA km 832 (nr Karamu)
Daily Distance – 32 km
TA Distance – 832 km
Today I posed with a giant fish cutout, a field of cows competed to see who could most stealthily eat
Chris’ rucksack and we met an American whose laconic mannerisms and cocksure attitude reminded me
instantly of the Clint Eastwood character Dirty Harry. Yet none of those events was the strangest thing to
happen today.
As with so many unusual events, this one took place in a public toilet. A brief aside about public toilets in
NZ first though. Towns here seem to consider it a very real possibility that the Queen may visit at a
moment’s notice and need to use one. The exterior walls often feature artistic fish based murals and
without fail they have been spotlessly clean and excellently maintained. Hamilton especially seems to
take particular pride in its public conveniences. Having been serenaded on my way into town by an
invisible smooth jazz pianist as soon as the fancy button operated door slid shut, they really go the extra
mile. I discovered while making a farewell visit on the way out of town that the extra mile extends farther
than I expected, much farther. Never before have I been welcomed into a toilet by a disembodied Mr
Spock, complete with Enterprise style whooshing door and docking clamp release sound effects. I’ve said
it before, but it’s worth repeating, New Zealand can be a very odd place. While I desperately wanted to
know what would happen if I exceeded my Spock advised occupancy limit of 10 minutes, there was
walking to be done, so I guess answering that question is a final frontier to be crossed on another voyage.
Leaving the streets of Hamilton behind we passed into rolling countryside with minds turning towards the
planned morning coffee break at a small cafe 10km or so ahead. Coffee ended up being a sociable affair
having met Laura (a German sporting a confusingly American accent) and “Clint” Austin (America)
along the road. It was in the beer garden at this cafe that we discovered a disconcertingly cheery, man
sized fish cutout of no obvious purpose. Having made a resolution to embrace the absurd and unexpected
on this trip a photograph was entirely necessary. Reluctantly leaving the sunny beer garden, the trail
passed into pastures following the path of a small river. It was in one of these fields that we attracted the
attention of some 50 particularly inquisitive cows. Their favourite game was attempting to sneak up on
Chris and chew the straps hanging from the back of his rucksack. Being thus diverted I was unmolested
by all but a couple who seemed to be daring each other to see how close they would get before losing
their nerve and running away. Cute little things.
The final push for the day was through rolling, green NZ sheep country. The planned tent site for the
night at 28km didn’t work out as it was on farmland and I prefer to ask permission before just pitching up.
The plan b camp spot wasn’t as nice and required another hour of walking, but that’s life sometimes when
intending to wild camp. It at least didn’t come with the chance of annoying a farmer who may think twice
about allowing the TA route across his land in future. The downside being that I’m now thoroughly tired
and reaching camp at 19:30 means writing this will end up being a job for tomorrow. Never mind though,
tomorrow will see me summiting the first mountain on the TA route, which I’m really looking forward to.
It has been a long time coming.
