Day 12 – Häuslalm to Eisenerz

Daily Distance – 23km
Daily Ascent – 500m
Daily Descent – 1300m
Total Distance – 213km
Distance Remaining – 838km

One thing that has surprised me about Austria is how Anti-Camper it seems to be. Now, I don’t mean camper vans here, they seem to be welcomed, bit rather tent campers. Sometimes the continual signs about how loud noises, tent camping and making fires are punishable get a little old. One such example, being the several hours I spent slogging through waterlogged cow pastures this morning. I mean, I’d need to be pretty desperate before bedding down there anyway, so why the constant signs? I will admit if it weren’t for a lack of materials I would have been tempted to suffix the signs with “eat soya for camping freedom”. Sometimes it does grate that herds of cows can use the land freely, but that the act of setting up a tent for a night is tantamount to inscribing your name on the colosseum, and no Britain would ever do that…

Tonight I spend the night in the town of Eisenerz (Iron ore). The main selling point seems to be the act of environmental vandalism, which is the Erzberg (ore mountain), which looms over the town like a ziggurat memorial to shortsighted materialism. Still, either through genuine pride or desperation for some unique selling point, they seem quite proud of it. Either way, it is certainly a striking figure in the skyline of the town.

After the soggy cow experience of this morning, the afternoon was much more pleasant. Nicely made paths, leading through woodland gorges, frequently with a small river running alongside the path. My afternoon highlight was stopping for a lunchtime paddle. Washing the grime, some cow, away was lovely and lent an energy to the afternoon march to Eisenerz, although not before taking in the striking lake Leopoldsteiner. Lakes are hardly a novelty when living in Bremen, although lakes surrounded by mountains are quite a unique sight.

Admont and my end to the Nordalpenweg is now only two walks and a trot away. It has certainly come around quickly and will take some processing, although a return to Germany is also exciting. Tomorrow night will see me trying to find a camp spot somewhere in the woods, owing to awkwardly spaced accommodation. As Austrian woods seem to comprise of 90% ants and 10% trees/soil, this may be an interesting proposition. Still, Admont and the Via Alpina beckon.