Daily Distance – 18km
Daily Ascent – 1100m
Daily Descent – 777m
Total Distance – 275km
Distance Remaining – 738km
In what can only be described as a catastrophic lapse in judgement, today I tried to eat a spoonful of ground linseeds. Coating my teeth and mouth like napalm, if it was rich in omega 3 and 6 anyway, it may survive until the end of this walk. It has so far resisted contact with other foods, water and a toothpick. I can only hope that hut beer can vanquish this most persistent of substances! Maintaining optimum nutrition while hiking will be more challenging than I thought. I originally intended to add this to my breakfast muesli, but sleeping in dormitories makes this a little challenging. A metal spoon scraping a metal pan does not an acoustically incognito breakfast make.
With regards better decisions, today I took a cheat journey with a cable car train. Saving 600m of ascent through humid forest, I consider this €13 well spent. It also saved enough energy for an off route diversion to Warscheneck peak, which is the highest in the area and offers a much finer view than slogging through a forest.
Indeed, my impression of the Dead Mountains (Tote Geberge) is that they are the most beautiful part of Austria so far. Glacially carved, they appear almost to have been built in layers, as if by a celestial 3D printer. The “dead” name comes from the lack of plant or animal life there, but even within the moonlike environment, grass and isolated herds of Ibex survive. It has been a pretty special day, but tiredness is robbing me now of the vocabulary to adequately describe how unique and breathtaking it is. Hopefully my photos can better illustrate.
Much of today, I have spent hiking with Phil(ippe) from Canada, who I first met in Admont and is following the same route, and currently, at the same pace. Despite my cheat, I was caught on the first big ascent, him having started walking several hours earlier than I. This is a constant issue that I find when staying in towns. Unlike most places I have stayed, breakfast is always included in the price. So the decision must always be made, to begin walking at my preferred time and skip the breakfast, or accept a later start time, in order to have the already paid for breakfast. Today, I chose breakfast and had no cause to regret my decision as it was delicious. Not even when I went back for seconds. Anyway, breakfast discussion aside, it was nice to have company for a change.
Tomorrow will be a less alpine day, but will be the first time that I have done two stages in one day. It should be achievable, and certainly doing one or the other stage would result in a very short day, but is mainly useful in that it puts me a 2nd day ahead of schedule. Not that I am in a rush, but it’s comforting to have a buffer in case delays arise later in the trip.
Anyway, it’s 20:30 and I am definitely thinking that bed is in order soon. But first I should go through the nightly route of checking route notes for tomorrow, understanding water availability and filling my water bottles. Fortunately, I believe my dormitory is empty apart from me, so I have more latitude to make noise packing my bag in the morning. A nice bonus as that saves some packing time tonight.
Good choice on the train ride. The views are very rugged and very layered. Beer is a good food and nicer than linseed.
There’s some spectacular photos here but my favourite is the beer drinking one. Looks like life in the mountains suits you.