Day 18 : Waptus Lake

Start – Waptus Lake (950 m)
Finish – Spectacle Lake (1300 m)
Daily Distance – ? km (took an alternate route, so not sure)
Ascent – ? m
Descent – ? m

I feel that I lack the dedication to be a PCT southbound hiker. The narrow weather window between the Washington snows melting in the spring and the onset of winter snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains means that southbound hikers have to maintain a pretty quick pace from the outset. It seems a shame really, as Washington unveils such a succession of beautiful lakes along this route. What a waste to push on to make miles and choose a camp spot only with that in mind.

Today, I feel the freedom that only hiking a number of weeks provides. I set out early and walked diligently, but not so much that I couldn’t spend almost an hour having lunch by Pete Lake with no more than the birds for company. I also toyed with the idea of pushing on, but people say that Spectacle Lake is beautiful, so I called a halt at 15:00 for an afternoon of swimming and sunbathing. Not very dedicated thru-hiker approved behaviour. That isn’t to say that I wouldn’t like to meet some Southbound hikers dreaming of Mexico, but it seems unlikely. My start date was slightly later than the majority, and those who start later are under even more pressure to cover distance each day, so are out pacing me. Of course, while I believe this to be the case, it also can’t be overlooked that American hikers are far more competitive when it comes to “crushing” huge distances than are Europeans.

Good news items from today. My ankle, which was hurting yesterday and this morning, gave no hint of trouble this afternoon. I can’t claim to know why, but it is a relief. Hopefully, tomorrow brings more progress. Also, Spectacle Lake is my new favourite lake, displacing the unfortunate Waptus. My camping site this evening is set atop a rugged peninsula jutting out into the lake. A small labyrinth of flat tent spots and hidden ways down to the water. For instance, my nearest water access involves walking down a slightly precarious looking log and then hopping down from a bank onto the stony shore. It is a hard life when each day brings a new favourite lake. Even the presence of boldly inquisitive chipmunks is more charming than annoying. That is, unless they get into my precious bag of Werther’s Original. Some lines shouldn’t be crossed no matter how cute the perpetrator.