Daily Distance – 17km
Daily Ascent – 1350m
Daily Descent – 580m
Total Distance – 442km
Distance Remaining – 537km
After thirty stages, leading from Vienna to a stone’s throw from Königssee, I am back in Germany!
In terms of stages, if not in distance, today also marks the halfway point of this hike. The remainder of my route will lead through the Bavarian Alps until the final few days before Bregenz, when I will once again dip back into Austria.
In common with all German borders, there was nothing to mark one’s passing from Austria into Germany. Disappointing for anyone who wants a nice photo at the border, but Germany takes the Schengen zone more seriously than most it seems. To Germans, dismantling border infrastructure was a symbolic act of freedom and friendship, so in a way it’s nice that the only way to judge the border crossing was by a notice informing people that they have entered a national park whose southern boundary just happens to run along the border. Contrary to the Schengen principle of no borders, I am considering today’s crossing a significant milestone, even if I have no better reason than because it feels like one.
Fortunately for a symbolic day, the hiking was by and large excellent. There is a desolate moonscape of barren rocks for several hiking hours, which technically belongs to Austria, but whose sole inhabitants seem to be some rather laid back sheep. In landscapes such as this, with almost no people to be seen, home seems very far away. One could almost pretend to be exploring another planet. This characterisation would be absurd to people from many countries, but to someone raised in the rolling, green fields of middle England, it seemed terribly alien. Even the hut tonight is in perhaps the most perfect setting that I have yet encountered. A sheltered valley with a cool, clear lake and mountain views is almost as if Tolkien was subcontracted by the Bavarian tourist board to design mountain huts. The snoring in tonight’s room is also suitably epic. But anyway it’s late and a hike, followed by a boat ride awaits tomorrow. Plus I’m letting the side down on the snoring front.
It’s good to be back.
What a place for a hut, and what a view from the bench