Day 3 – Hohe Mandling Peak to Edelweiss Hut

Daily Distance – 23km
Daily Ascent – 1000m
Daily Descent – 1100m
Total Distance – 70km
Distance Remaining – 980km

Today has been a physically and psychologically tiring day. Having sweated more than anticipated yesterday, having no water source at my camping spot and uncertain availability in the early parts of this section, I wasn’t able to rehydrate as I would have liked last night. I don’t know how much of an impact this had, but I really struggled with the climbs today. Austria tends to make rivers and streams flowing through towns and villages rather inaccessible, unless one is willing to battle down steep, overgrown banks. Also, the availability of public drinking fountains is very inconsistent, so water planning is a bit of a nuisance. It’s frustrating carrying the extra weight only to find a water fountain a few kilometres later, but it’s pretty miserable running out with distance still to walk.

I was fortunately spared knocking on people’s doors to beg water and found a beautifully accessible stream in the last town before the day’s big ascent. The only issue being a small dog who had half a mind to steal my hiking poles while I was filtering water. Fortunately his somewhat embarrassed owner was quicker, so my hiking poles remain unchewed.

Moans aside, which is difficult as both of my hoped for lunch stops were closed, so no beer for me, today I hit a new high point for the walk at 1300m. The Edelweiss hut where I stay tonight also serves generous portions of very tasty food, so I can’t complain on that account. And once again I am the only overnight guest. The room where I sleep can berth 15 or so, so I assume at some points they are busy. Perhaps early July is a peculiarly quiet time. My only complaint is that, owing to water shortages, there are no showers here. After 3 long days of walking, performing the necessary gymnastics to wash my muddy legs in the basin was rather unwelcome.

One final thought struck me today. I have now walked through several small hamlets which have a small train station. The one today could have been mistaken for a bus shelter were it not for the fancy, red train sitting there. It seems very civilised and a real boon to small towns which otherwise may end up depopulated as people chase work in the cities. I don’t know how the Austrian train network is organised, but I can’t help but wonder if this is the result of influential regional governments, rather than decisions all being made centrally, with no input from the regions themselves.