Day 30 – Kärlingerhaus to Königssee

Daily Distance – 16km (some of which by boat)
Daily Ascent – 140m
Daily Descent – 1170m
Total Distance – 458km
Distance Remaining – 521km

This blog has been written in many hotel rooms, innumerable huts and several forest bivouac sites. This is the first time it has been written while cooling my feet in the cool, clear waters of a national park protected lake. A luxury to which I could happily become accustomed, although which the wildlife may not survive. After one month of walking my socks and particularly shoes are in a state best not smelled.

Seeing the famous (among Germans) Königssee lake (Kings lake) is something that I have looked forward to since the early stages of planning this trip. As my planned rest day tomorrow looks set to be a wash out, I am especially glad to have arrived here by mid-morning on a perfect summer’s day. There is no denying that this is a popular tourist spot. Long queues for the ferries that buzz up and down the lake arise by lunchtime, but in the morning, before the tour bus influx, it is a serene place. Thankfully, due to the lengthy list of conservation rules, e.g. no private boats, the ferries must be electric etc, the waters are still crystal clear by the shore, shading to a light azure in the depths. While I appreciate the efforts to conserve the purity of the lake, I admit to a slight disappointment that I can’t slip a stand up paddle board out onto the waters and explore that way. Given the weather and peak season it is nearly impossible to obtain one of the rental rowing boats, although the squeak of the oars in the locks as they pass by still lends a relaxing air.

It is an interesting quirk that the move away from petrol engines boats happened here as early as 1909, not on environmental protection grounds, but rather to preserve the tranquil atmosphere. Also, Hitler’s famous “Eagle’s Nest” summer retreat is visible on a high peak overlooking the town. These days it is a restaurant and popular visitor attraction, but feels nevertheless like a bridge to the past, which I would like to visit when time allows.

Having finally arrived I am feeling a little light on words. Perhaps an alternative career as a travel writer is not such an effortless jaunt as it appears. I will let the photos, insufficient as they inevitably are, have the last word.