Day 31 – Königssee Rest Day

Daily Distance – 0km
Daily Ascent – 0m
Daily Descent – 0m
Total Distance – 458km
Distance Remaining – 521km

Fortunately my rain coat and trousers held up admirably today, although my shoes became so wet that my feet would have been well served by sprouting gills. At times during these past few weeks I have wondered if I have perhaps fallen asleep and missed summer. Having began this walk with several weeks of sun, the past few have been characterised by frequent attempts to dodge unpredictable rain storms. So it has proved again today.

Unfortunately, on wet days like today there is very little to do in Königssee. My current hiking shoes may as well have been manufactured from crumbly pie crust for all the durability they have shown, so browsing the sports shops for a replacement was my main task today. Other than that, browsing the gift shops, watching rain mist the lake waters and drinking coffee can only occupy so much time. On the other hand, while it is annoying to lose out on a day of exploring the lake, at least I didn’t have to walk in today’s filthy weather. The forecast for tomorrow is sunny, although the less said about the rest of the week the better. The forecast does tend to change hourly though and frequently disagrees with the moist evidence falling from the sky, so there is plenty of time for it to improve. That would be a relief as several sections during the next week would be useful to wild camp on, an activity that is considerably less fun in driving rain. Becoming more comfortable finding my own camp spots is the only way I see around the constant difficulties and expense of finding official accommodation each night. Huts including drinks are typically under €40 per night, but nights in towns and mountain hotels normally cost €70-100, when rooms are even available. I am in no danger of running out of money, but the relentless wild camping prohibition allied to the high costs for frequently mediocre accommodation begins to feel like a cash grab after a while. Even the infrequent campsites have gentrified and often impose a four night minimum stay. In the Europe of 2023 pilgrims must be either rich or charming.