Daily Distance – ~22km
Daily Ascent – ~900m
Daily Descent – ~1100m
Total Distance – 532km
Distance Remaining – 481km
A tough day.
Today is the first day that I have seriously contemplated quitting the trail. A day of full rain gear, sweating inside rain gear, an icy summit wind, frustrated lunch ambitions, wet feet and slippery rocks. Rarely have I been so glad to be standing in only a light drizzle.
The room tonight is strewn with various items of drying gear. Raincoat, tent, socks, shoes, rucksack, even my underwear is draped artfully over a lamp. After so many clammy hours, it was a real relief to jump in a warm shower and change into some dry clothes.
Ignoble mention of the day, other than the lack of any recognisably summer weather in north Europe this year, goes to the staff of the Neue Traunsteiner Hut. Clearly assuming that nobody would arrive on such a dreary day, the staff were nowhere to be found. Perhaps there is a secret knock, or a VIP entrance hidden behind a stuffed cow, but my dreams of coffee, cake and a restorative lunch went up in smoke. Or at least they would have done, but everything was too damp.
The rain tomorrow at least looks lighter than today. I still have decisions to make about accommodation as tomorrow evening is my last booking. The town after, which is a long walk, has nothing, leaving me a bivouac option, but the whole day is currently forecast for heavy rain. I am not due another day off, but walking for an estimated 9 hours (exc breaks) in heavy rain won’t be fun and camping in it equally unappealing. This uncertainty is holding up arranging anything else, which is rather stressful given how booked up places are.
Right now, this trip is feeling more like work than enjoyment.





Rain and bad weather does make you wonde3r what the hell you are doing. Find somewhere to hunker down and wait for better forecast. I know how you must feel, it has been rain and more rain here but I can escape inside. Your spirits are low because of lack of cake
That was a tough day and a half. Staying put for now sounds like the best option. Staff might get off their backsides and turn up tomorrow. Resting up and giving yourself a break from struggling with logistics won’t be wasted time even if you do get a bit bored. You can take your time deciding what you want to do. Look after yourself x