The PCT trail days have certainly been a very different experience than the trail so far. It is really more a festival atmosphere, with hiking tying it together as a broad theme. Most people were interested to look round the booths setup by a myriad of outdoor manufacturers large and small, but there is definitely a large spread in attitudes along the hiking-party continuum. For some, the actual walking takes rather a backseat to the singing of songs, enjoyment of beer, cannabis and a variety of hallucinogenics, whereas others are rather more focused on trying to progress their hike.
With some 500+ hikers gathered together, one can really see a cultural divide between people hiking northbound and southbound. Southbounders, being by far in the minority are a more subdued, serious bunch, perhaps because of the extra focus required to complete their hike inside of a much shorter weather window. Northbounders are a more diverse and eccentric bunch. Contrary to rumours of its death at some point in the 90s, tie dye is very much alive in the NOBO community. As is burley middle-aged men wearing pink vests and tutus and hiking in studded crocs. Many are treating the challenge seriously, but equally if you want to score drugs, or talk to the guy with a long fluffy tail extending over his shoulder and a musical instrument made of midi controllers and pvc pipe, then seek out the NOBO community.
Of course, these broad differences notwithstanding, there is no rivalry or animosity between the two camps. The nicest thing about the hiking community is its acceptance of people simply striking up conversations. In fact, one can really notice when the trail is nearing town, because greeting day hikers results in a mixed quizzical/suspicious look, rather than potentially a brief conversation. It’s an adjustment that every hiker has to remember to make when in the vicinity of towns.
It is tough to come up with a proper description of all that transpired during the previous days, so here is a list in no particular order:
- Friday morning, the organisers provided a free breakfast for the campers. The food was good and consisted of scrambled eggs, sausage patties and pancakes. Mugs for the coffee ran out early and I hadn’t thought to bring my pan, so no breakfast caffeine was imbibed. Shame, as after waiting in line for 30 minutes in the rain a coffee would have been welcome.
- The Durston stand gave me a free buzz cut. They usually make tents and packs, and were offering a free repair service, but clearly know the needs of shaggy hikers who can’t find a barber anywhere.
- I bought a new pair of socks to replace one with holes, a $6 fuel exchanger valve, partly to support the one-man-band company as he makes the pad inflater which I have and it makes my life much more pleasant. I also received a free foam sit pad in exchange for making a donation to the local food bank. Curiously most stands were only exhibiting their products, they weren’t actually for sale, which seems a missed opportunity.
- It was a near impossibility getting a shower. I would have very much liked one, but instead left even grubbier than I arrived.
- The people camped next to me had an array of musical instruments and a love of singing. Seemingly without the need to sleep, they would often spontaneously start playing at all hours. The quality wasn’t bad though.
- Art and I took the bus to the larger, nearby town of Hood River. Me to buy food for and mail myself a resupply box to Shelter Cove resort (to be picked up in a few weeks), Art to send himself and wife various American food items, which are impossible to get in Vietnam where they are based. Given the infrequent buses, we also treated ourselves to burritos and beer to better pass the time.
On a sad note, Tony who I started out walking with has been forced to retire injured, so has not been able to finish his missing PCT sections this year. Once his foot heals, he will try once again to complete Oregon. The irony being, the Washington sections we did together were tougher than where he was injured, but perhaps that’s just the reality of hiking at 77.
Overall, I found the PCT Trail Days to be an interesting and enjoyable cultural experience. I am ready to hit the trail again though tomorrow. There is only so much drinking and chatting that can be done before the urge to move comes on again
No coffee Horrors! Shame about the rain, a lot of soggy tents. No doubt many hiking stories in the air.
Soweit die Typisierung von nord- bzw. südwärts gerichteten Wanderern. Wie verhält es sich, wenn man west- oder ostwärts unterwegs ist? Ich bewundere Leute, die sich einen Schwanz umhängen oder nutzlose Ballettkleidung tragen, wenn sie in die Wildnis ziehen. Sie sind todesmutig. Oder irgend etwas anderes. Hoffentlich wirst Du noch zu Deinem Kaffee Crema kommen.
Nice to know the NOBO folk take their fashion seriously.
Will we be treated to a pic of this new buzzcut look of yours at some point?
I hope the rain clears as you hit the trail again.