Day 37 – Marquartstein to Kampenwand Station

Daily Distance – 12km
Daily Ascent – 1230m
Daily Descent – 330m
Total Distance – 593km
Distance Remaining – 424km

Sitting in the dining room of tonight’s hotel feels like I have strayed into the mountain lair of a Bond villain. Floor to ceiling windows on two walls looking down upon the valley below, minimalist furnishings and big enough to comfortably seat one hundred despite only having five shabby hikers dining. I half expect the basement to contain a swimming pool full of alligators into which the last person not to leave the waiting staff a tip is being slowly lowered. Given the persistent difficulty finding accommodation on this trip, a half empty hotel is something of a rarity. Of course, that may have something to do with the price. €100 for a bunk in a six bed room, with dinner and breakfast included (whether you want them or not). If the weather wasn’t so grisly, I probably would have camped in preference to staying here. However, after being upgraded to a double room, which I have to myself, and a quite excellent three course meal, I am feeling rather more kindly disposed towards the establishment.

Walking highlight of the day was the ascent to the Chiemgau cross atop the Kampenwand cliffs. At 12m tall and made from iron, it is the largest summit cross in the Bavarian Alps. Erected in 1950, primarily by volunteers, each piece had to be carried to the summit site at 1664m. A task, which I can confirm, is far from easy. Even with only a rucksack, and assisted by steel ropes hung from the rock, parts of the ascent were more remeniscant of Spiderman, rather than regular hiking. An experience that was enjoyable in retrospect, but at the time is more nerve wracking than anything else. Adding an extra spice, the weather has really delivered a touch of everything today. As a baseline, it has been cool and a little windy. However, occasionally an extra strong gust of wind would presage a ten minute downpour, which would stop as suddenly as it began. I am glad not to have been any higher today as the clouds have raced across the sky all day.

The consensus seems to be that tomorrow represents a return to summer weather, albeit still with relatively cool temperatures. Fingers crossed for that as hat, gloves and raincoat were required to stay warm for much of the day. Given temperatures fall by 1°C for each 100m of ascent, a warm sea level temperature is nice when bumbling around at altitude. I believe the high temperature for my high point at the summit cross was a tropical 3°C today. Continuing to resolutely wear shorts, temperatures like these are certainly a good incentive to keep on the move.