Day 44 : Rockpile Lake

Start – Rockpile Lake (1905 m)
Finish – Bend (off trail)
Daily Distance – 23 km
Ascent – 455 m
Descent – 900 m

Today, while taking a long overdue shower, I found a pine needle in my chest hair!

I didn’t realise when starting out that Oregon is essentially a high altitude desert. Hot in the day, cold after dark, and relatively dry. Speaking to one native of Bend (where I am writing this), she remarked that it is almost always smoky during August from forest fires, it’s just the way it is. It seems an oddly unconcerned attitude to somebody unused to forest fires. Starting only several days ago, a fire of (currently) almost 22,000 acres is burning north of here, near the neighbouring town of Sisters, and the smoke can clearly be smelled and seen on the wind. I don’t think there will be an issue getting back to the trail tomorrow, despite having to pass through Sisters, but it must be a concerning reality to live with.

Partly because today was only to cover a (relatively) short distance to Highway 20, it was a toughie. Especially when town food is in prospect, the temptation is to push through without breaks is strong. A heatwave is also impacting this area, meaning that passage through the burn areas, which made up most of today, were a brutal slog with only the barest scraps of shade.

Having met along the way, I ended up hitching to town with Deetz, whose pink sun hoody and grey beard I judged made him seem less threatening than my salt rimed sports top and aura of (occasional) youth and vigour. It also seems easier to push hard when not walking alone, as I think there is a small degree of unconscious competitiveness, and also somebody else to periodically commiserate with. Tony, who had unknowingly passed us while we rehydrated at a pond, but turned the wrong way up the highway in search of a hitching spot, had the good fortune to jump in the car which stopped for us. The hitching Gods smiled and the wait time was only about 5 minutes before Travis stopped to pick us up while he dropped his wife Storm at the nearby trailhead.

I haven’t seen much of Bend yet, although from the many positive reviews have high hopes. Like always, the first orders of business were seeking a large meal (thanks Black Bear Diner), a shower, and starting on the town jobs list (wash clothes, backup photos, charge electronics etc). I will venture out later though, but mainly look forward to not walking much. Since the overladen descent from Timberline Lodge my right shin has been periodically hurting. That does seem to be the way with hikers over 40 though. Each morning we spin the roulette wheel to find out which body part will hurt today.

Amusement of the day: Chipmunks are not the world’s most decisive decision makers. Overwhelmed by panic at my approach, one ran left and right across the path no fewer than 4 times trying to reach a conclusion on which way represented the best avenue of escape. Being considerate, I waited patiently during this period of Hamlet-esque vaccilation.