Day 54 – Tannheim to Prinz Luitpold Haus

Daily Distance – 21km
Daily Ascent – 1750m
Daily Descent – 1000m
Total Distance – 900km
Distance Remaining – 113km

When one’s hiking top has achieved a sufficient salt content to be mistaken for an 80s style tie dye shirt, more evidence that it has been a tough day is really not required. Also, even knowing about tie dye is an increasingly unfortunate age related admission. I’m not old, just increasingly wise and refined. The throbbing knees, post hike hobble and grey in the beard are entirely coincidental.

Today’s penultimate via alpina stage was one final sting in the tail and the toughest day so far. Reluctantly waking at 05:00 from a disturbed sleep featuring disquieting cheese dreams of a disturbingly ebullient Donald Trump, hiking commenced in the pre-dawn twilight of 05:45. Such an early start can only mean one thing, the binary weather dial is still pointing to sun, with the flip back to rain not due for another few days.

One concern that stayed with me throughout this stage was balancing the availability of water with not wanting the extra weight of carrying more than required. Based on the map, there were very few possible water sources en-route and one can never be entirely sure if a stream pictures is in reality still flowing and accessible. Given the challenges of terrain, large ascents and a lack of shade, the walking day has lasted 10:30, during which I drank approximately 5.5 litres of water. Much of this was consumed squatting over a rivulet running across the path or hugging a rock to finally achieve some degree of shade from the mid-afternoon sun. Sometimes I think hiking isn’t as glamorous as people may imagine. Speaking of glamorous, a key part of the long distance hiker routine is finding a basin after (hopefully) each day to wash smelly socks, so that they (again hopefully) have time to dry before the next day. It is amazing how much time is required before the water begins running clear, especially as most huts and many guest houses don’t provide hand soap. Usually patience loses the battle and I settle for better, rather than good.

In addition to being perhaps the most beautiful hiking day since of this trip, I saw my first true to life alpine sheep herder today. I was so busy taking photos of a small flock of travelling sheep and didn’t notice the lady and dog ambling along after them at first. It felt rather like being transported back in time to when this would be a common sight, rather than a dying profession. Apparently there is an ongoing debate among alpine livestock farmers about the use of the traditional cow/sheep bell vs the use of GPS trackers to locate cattle. GPS has the greater range, which makes locating easier, but has more to go wrong, is more expensive and there is already a financial investment made in the bells. Of course, compared to the reintroduction of wolves into the region, this is little more than a tame debate.

I am off now for a cold shower before the temperatures drop. I refuse to pay multiple euros to the hut owners for what often turns out to be only a few minutes of lukewarm water. Besides, given the temperatures today being cold for a few minutes will be a refreshing change.