Daily Distance – 15km
Daily Ascent – ~50m
Daily Descent – ~0m
Total Distance – 933km
Distance Remaining – 80km
Outside the rain falls in an unending curtain, inside I have (so far) drank four cups of tea, and despite my best efforts still feel mildly hungover. As promised I joined Phil in a few drinks to celebrate his completion of the Via Alpina Purple from Slovenia to Oberstdorf. Why the trail ends in Oberstdorf is a mystery to everyone, but for whatever reason it does. Perhaps the plethora of bars wherein to buy litre steins of beer, whisky and gin is the best explanation. It certainly makes the post walk celebrations uncomplicated. Indeed our greatest difficulty was being ran out of the first watering hole by an overly enthusiastic Bavarian guitar, accordion and tuba band. Despite only being 18:30 and apparently sober, there is apparently something in the southern soul that demands they raucously clap or stamp along in time to traditional music. Rather like the ability of a sleeping dog to become instantly alert in response to the crinkle of a food wrapper, but with middle aged Germans and the soulful harmony of accordion and tuba. As if an ancient, Lederhosen wearing god of the forest and meadow has come alive and demanded that his worshippers dance, but not that they should feel obligated to over exert themselves.
My more productive exertions yesterday were to walk the first, easy stage of the E5 route from Oberstdorf towards Bregenz. Naturally, given the recent run of scorching weather, predictions are now for three days of near constant rain. Apparently a happy medium doesn’t exist this summer, but I did at least manage to utilise the brief, remaining hours of sun to polish off this section before catching the train back to Oberstdorf where I will stay for one more night. After the many ascents and descents of recent days my knees were happy to receive a flat day following a cycle path along the swift river Iller. The numerous information boards detailing aspects of river wildlife and the recent history of widespread flooding from the river also made for pleasant excuses to stop. Factoid of the day; beavers grow over 1.3m long with a weight of 30kg.
Tomorrow’s route is still a little under review on account of the weather. One possibility is a reputedly beautiful ridge walk, which may be treacherous in wet weather, or a valley walk, which only rises into the mountains towards the end. This could necessitate slogging along tarmac roads for half a day though, I am not yet certain what I will find on that route.
Final factoid of the day, I became trapped in the Sonthofen train station toilet. Having dutifully paid my €1 to enter via the turnstile, the facilities were beautifully clean, but the mag-lock gate to exit was broken and would only open several inches. So I have now added “crawled under a train station toilet turnstile” to my list of misadventures for this trip.
I will be entering you into the next limbo dance night.
Glad you got your celebration done. You have to enjoy accordian music in the whole of northern europe I think – but the Germans are especially keen and like to throw in the odd tuba just to liven it up. Good legs have had a little respite for the last few K’s
Congratulations to Phil. Looks like a good evening. Just what you need after a tricky escape from the public toilets.