Daily Distance – 26km
Daily Ascent – ~1200m
Daily Descent – ~1600m
Total Distance – 1015km
Distance Remaining – 0km
The journey is the end. Easy to say, far harder to fully embrace. The completion of a long journey tends to recall T.S. Eliot’s famous depiction of the world ending, “…not with a bang, but with a whimper”. There is deep satisfaction to be found, relief that the days of hard challenge are over, anticipation of being reunited with loved ones, but also quiet grief at a time now passed, never to be recaptured. There is no cosmic revelation, no fireworks or heroic music to greet our coming, just the last step in a series of thousands. And I may add, almost always a total inability to find anywhere to buy a cup of tea. Next hike, I’m ending it at a tea shop!
Lake Constance is however, a beautiful endpoint to this journey and I am glad to have finally seen it in sunshine, rather than heavy cloud. Of course, choosing an endpoint 40 minutes walk away from my hotel was a blow… Apparently, despite containing enough water to submerge the entire area of Austria to a depth of 60cm, it is still only the third largest lake in Europe. I wonder if the second largest lake has a tea shop…
Hiking in the Alps has definitely been a learning experience. If undertaking another alpine tour I definitely wouldn’t bring a tent or stove. For the amount of use they had, it’s just not worth the extra weight. The tarpaulin on the other hand was also rarely used, but was a real saviour when it was required. Also, twist lock trekking poles are not recommended. This was my first set, but have been unreliable since day one and are very vulnerable to internal moisture oxidising the aluminium and making them even less reliable.
In terms of hut-life, I am decidedly ambivalent. They are amazing resources and people often use them as a cornerstone of their holidays and just walk from hut-to-hut without worrying about food or camping equipment. Unless in a private room though, do expect poor sleep. Also, as weight loss plans go, alpine hiking is not the best. I am fairly certain that my beer consumption has risen during these two months underway.
Ambling around the Alps has been useful in clarifying what I most appreciate in a long hike. A sense of trail community I have missed these past months. It becomes a little wearing after a while being the shabby weirdo in a community of people just out for a day or two of walking. The difference in experience is often just too great to bridge. The ability to be flexible in daily plans is also a huge bonus. I understand the prohibition on wild camping in much of Europe as it only takes a few people to abuse the freedom and leave rubbish/ash behind to make it unsustainable. However, having the freedom to adjust day length to suit, or simply just the possibility to camp in the vicinity of huts would make a huge difference. This more than anything is what I would like from any future hike.
If there was perhaps any wider purpose to this journey, it could be found today in rescuing a farm kitten whose head was lodged in a yoghurt pot. Being too despondent to even run away at my approach, it was possible to grab cat and pot and gently tease the two apart without resorting to penknife surgery on the pot. It would make a better story if I now carried the kitten atop my rucksack as a loyal companion, but nope, as soon as that yoghurt smeared head was out of the pot it was off like a shot. Perhaps if I can find a dog with its head stuck in a tin of beans…
Thanks to everyone who has followed me on this journey. Your support has been, as ever, invaluable.
Until the next time. Bis zum nächsten Mal
The feet! I remember those feet before they took one step.
I like the TS Elliott quote. Quite comforting in a way – though he obviously never got to meet Oppenheimer.The passing of time a difficult one. I try not to think about it too much. You might miss today. Well done for the ungrateful kitten rescue. Dogs are much better anyway. Have you really not lost weight? Amazing. Loved reading your blogs. Thanks for sharing your words.
Many thanks to you for taking us along with your blog posts. Twist lock trekking poles seem like a good idea – shame they did not live up to expectations. It is a pity to have reached the end without another hiker to compare notes with and celebrate the achievement.
Now could you please be again the shabby weirdo in our boxing class in Bremen? The role is too much of a burden for one alone… and if the beer-consume has been that alpine I see chances of winning with my new fighting technique. Have a good journey home!